Here's the inside of our new home...plus details of our trip to Collodi...

Jess's bathroom.  Tom took the smaller bathroom in our master bedroom.
There's no tub, the shower is small but it serves its purpose.

The authentic Tuscan kitchen; no dishwasher, no microwave, no small appliances,
no electric coffee pot but otherwise well stocked kitchen with items used
for making pasta, bread and sauces.  We're improving.

The TV wasn't working again until today when the owner's parents stopped
by to install a new cable box.  However, we've yet to find a single
English speaking channel.  In Belize, we were able to get all US networks.  Here
we'll watch movies and shows.


The master bedroom has a comfortable bed, good pillows and
blankets.  With no AC or fans in the entire house and no screens
on the windows, we still open the windows at night for some cooler air.
However, surprisingly we are comfortable in the heat of Italy's summer.  The stone
thick walls keep the house cool.

Yes, there are some basic amenities we are living without as described in yesterday's post.  But, after today's trip to Collodi, a half hour drive through narrow winding mountain roads, we are much more at ease.
 
 
  
 Walking onto the patio required serious maneuvering over the side of
a flight of stone steps, not for the feint of heart.
 As we commenced the long drive to Collodi from Boveglio.



Narrow roads.


 Me and Pinocchio outside the children's park.
 A sign on a stone wall advertising Pinocchio.
 Metal sculpture of the author, Carlo Lorenzini 1826-1890, aka Carlo Collodi, and his Pinocchio.
 Another sculpture of Pinocchio.
Collodi is a popular tourists attraction as the home of
the author of the favorite children's story, Pinocchio.
 
 Much of the town's activities center around the story of Pinocchio.
 
 
On our long drive from Venice to Boveglio, Tom was worried about not having enough euros with us when our credit cards didn't work at a few unattended gas stations, forcing us to use part of our few remaining euros. 
 
Today on the way to Collodi, we purchased gas at a station in Bottocini with an attendant who had no trouble getting the card to work for gas at which proved to be approximately $6 a gallon. 
 
 
 Botticino, the little town where we purchased gas for $6 a gallon.
 One of the main streets in Collodi.
 
Once we reach Collodi traveling along the treacherous guard-rail free road, we had a few goals in mind: exchange US cash for euros at a bank, buy enough groceries to last for two weeks and find a drugstore, yet again, to purchase contact lens solution, a rare commodity in certain parts of the world.
 
 
Outside the entrance to a small hotel in Collodi. 
 Driving around Collodi on one way streets.
 
 The road as we began our return to Bogevlio, a thirty minute
drive on sharp, winding mountainous roads.
 
At the bank, we walked into a single person glass round bullet proof tube, opening as one enters after pushing a button.  Then the door closed behind me while scanning for possession of any metal, such as a gun. Then for 30 seconds I was locked in the tube. 
 
 The road as we were leaving Collodi.
 
Tom had prepared me as to the procedure that he'd read about many years ago.  These tubes were installed in all Italian banks due to rampant bank robberies in Italy. With the installation of these tubes, bank robberies are now non-existent.
 
Once inside the bank, with no other customers in sight, I stood at the teller's window for no less than 30 minutes, while the manager of the bank and the teller ran some types of reports on me, all the while chattering in Italian, after taking my passport.  All I wanted was US $800 converted to euros. 
 
The road back "home."

Enchanting villages line the narrow road to the top, where we live in Boveglio.
 
Good thing I was the one doing this, since Tom's temper was about to flare with frustration.  When I realized this was going to be a lengthy process, I suggested Tom sit in the waiting area and read and Italian newspaper which he did.
 
Finally walking out the bank with our euros, we sauntered to a coffee shop next door, hoping for a plain cup of coffee with cream.  Apparently, no such coffee was available, only espresso, too strong for our liking.  Also at US $4 a cup, we decided to pass on the coffee and head to the grocery store next door.


 A semi was in front of us part of the way on the return drive.  Tom got a kick
out of seeing it maneuver the narrow winding roads. 
 Wonder how it works out when two semis meet on this road. 
Fortunately, we didn't have to witness that.  Finally, this semi turned off
into a paper recycling plant.
 More houses high in the hills.
The grocery store proved to be exactly what we needed.  Although small they carried almost all the items on our list except coconut oil, coconut flour, diet 7 Up for Tom's occasional cocktails and the equivalent of US bacon.  Instead, we purchased Prosciutto, wonderful grass fed meats, locally made cheeses and organic vegetables all grown in the area.
Our two week grocery purchase was US $326 for which we were pleased.

We purchased prime rib; the best looking two night's of short ribs I've ever seen; two night's grass fed chicken, two nights pork roast;  three night's grass fed ground beef for making meatballs, about five pounds of various cheeses and all of the ingredients necessary to make our favorite staple, homemade cheese crust pizza along with a batch of ten Italian sausages attached by strings. 
 

Continuing on the road.  There's no spot where one can stop to take photos.
It's way too dangerous to stop along these roads.
 
We also included four dozen eggs, real cream, laundry soap, sink soap, regular 7 UP for Tom's drinks, bar soap, toilet paper and paper towels.  All in all, we actually have enough to last us over two weeks with a plan to dine out in Benaggio twice a week at that cozy Italian restaurant we loved, Il Cavallino, having already made an online reservation for this upcoming Saturday night.

After the grocery shopping, we stopped at a pharmacy where we found contact lens solution, leaving me stocked up for the two and a half remaining months we'll be in Boveglio, Tuscany.

 Apparently, a storm washed out these trees along the road.

Greatly relieved to be well stocked with groceries, euros and gas, we're feeling more at ease, able to embrace this peaceful area, its smells, sights and sounds knowing that, for a time, this is home.  Not too bad, really.
 

 

Boveglio, Lucca. Tuscany, Italy...a step back in time...visit to Collodi...home of Pinocchio...

Tom in the doorway that walks out to the garden.
 
Only a small part of the gardens in our yard.

View of the road near our new home.
Remove the running water, the electricity, and the wireless Internet, we'd feel as if it were the were now living in the 1800's on a hillside in an old stone farmhouse in Boveglio, Lucca, built in the 17th century.

The gardens, prepared for an early harvest and the flowers blooming in the warmth of the sun, await our awe inspiring picking to enjoy their full beauty in our hands. 
 

Sign in the yard.
Many of the neighborhood roads are narrow, befitting a horse and buggy, never a modern day automobile. The main roads, also narrow and winding, are not for the feint of heart as one hairpin turn appears after another, as each guardrail- free curve suddenly looms before us.

The back of the property.
At night, the darkness is almost startling with nary a light in view in these vast mountains and rolling hills.  In the morning, the melodic sounds of birds, new to our ears ,wafts through the fresh, clean air, inviting us to awaken early to partake in yet another blissful day of Mother Nature's bounty.

Play and outdoor dining area.


Flowers are planted everywhere for our enjoyment while here.

Can you picture this table filled with friends drinking wine, talking loudly
 and dining on homemade Italian food?
Four times each hour, at odd intervals, we hear the clanging sounds of a clock tower, only steps for our door.  Within hours of falling asleep on the first night, we quickly adapted to the comforting sounds, allowing us to sleep deeply without disturbance.  And yet, throughout the day, we stop each time we hear the clang, giggling over its peculiar patterns, ringing one and three minutes before the hour and one and three minutes before the half hour.

This is the clock tower that chimes at odd times, next door to our home.

As we walked in the yard, we encountered many trees unfamiliar to us. 


Continuation of the walk on the property where there are other homes.
Our screen-less shuttered windows freely opened to the day and night, invite an array of flying insects that mostly and oddly find their way back outside before we turn in for the night, often buzzing around our heads during the day, an annoyance we are quickly becoming accustomed to.

An old wishing well in our yard.  No bucket.
With no working television, service lost some time ago to a storm, with no microwave or electric coffee pot, we rummaged through the Tuscan style few cabinets to find alternatives.  Alas, an old fashioned stove top percolator, caught our eye with a smaller version to boil water for tea.  Without a single small electric kitchen appliance in sight, we are fast learning to do it the "old way" whatever that may be.  Without complaint.

Another fountain in our yard.

The road outside our new home.

Yes, we fit all of our luggage in this tiny Fiat we've rented for the summer.
And again, a small front loading washing machine with no clothes dryer, directions in Italian, and again, a folding rack as we used in Dubai. 

 

The  outdoor dining area of the house next door to us.

Of course, there's no dishwasher other than Tom and no garbage disposal.  I'll do all the cooking with a simple but clean newer "old fashioned" gas stove.  The refrigerator is clean, small and antiquated with a tiny freezer with one ice cube tray.  I dumped my earrings into a soup bowl using the ice cube tray I'd brought along to hold them.

The spaces between the houses are too narrow for cars, but
were suitable for horses and buggies many years ago. 
Photos of our walks in the area will continue as we explore.
Not surprisingly, there are many utensils available for making and serving pasta, bread and wine which unfortunately, we won't be enjoying while here, other than for Tom when dining out.  We'd purchased a peeler and sharp knife in Dubai that luckily wasn't confiscated in our checked luggage, although they took two of our power strips.  Go figure.

In order to get a decent WiFi signal we have no alternative but to sit on the upper level veranda.  Our own MiFi doesn't work here with the altitude and the three foot thick rock walls.  Here is our view as we write each day.

 
View from our veranda and the best spot to get a signal.

The view to a part of our yard from the veranda.
Inspired by the calm of our surroundings after many months on the move, we both are finding the quiet and serenity of this magical place to have as profound an effect as any place we may have visited in our journey thus far. 

After a trip partially down the mountain yesterday to stop at Vivienne's tiny market in Benaggio, five kilometers away, for enough food to last us for a few nights, she extended "credit" to us, as did Alessandro at his restaurant Sunday night, until we are ready to make the longer drive to a bank to get Euros. 
For Euros $23, US $30, we purchased enough food for a few days:
four pork chops, one bag jumbo shrimp, four pieces swordfish, one pound of
sliced ham, two heads of Bibb lettuce, one pound of carrots, eighteen eggs and one tube
of mayonnaise (yellow box on the right).  The villa has seasonings, olive oil
red wine vinegar and balsamic vinegar.

Credit cards are not used in this area taking cash and credit accounts only.  Today, we'll venture out to the town of Collodi, a half hour drive to a larger grocery store.  (Vivienne's store was the size of a small bedroom with but a few items we need to cook our meals. 

Although we appreciate her setting up an account for us, we must go to a larger grocer.  This Saturday we'll go out to dinner again, hoping to make some new friends and to pay both our restaurant and grocery bills with our new stash of Euros.

In Collodi, the home of the Carlo Lorenzini (November 24, 1826 – October 26, 1890), better known by the pen name Carlo Collodi, was an Italian children's writer known for the world-renowned fairy tale novel, The Adventures of Pinocchio, we'll head to the bank to get Euros, buy groceries, fill the tiny tank in the Fiat and hopefully find more contact lens solution, my nemesis.  There's no pharmacy nearby. 

Tomorrow, we'll post photos of the interior of our new home and our visit to Collidi which hopefully will fulfill today's errands.  If not, tomorrow's another day.  We have all the time in the world.



Part 2 Venice...one more city knocked off our bucket list! Also, update on our new home


With the hot sun, the massive crowds, the going rate of $125 to $150 a couple and
and as evidenced here, the gondola traffic jam, we decided to forego the
30 minute ride in the clogged canals.
Today, we'll post our remaining photos of Venice, first updating our current status which we'll write about tomorrow in more detail, with much enthusiasm.

We arrived in Boveglio, Lucca, Tuscany yesterday around 5:00 pm after a long and difficult drive from Venice, estimated by Google Maps to be a 3 1/2 hour drive which ultimately proved to be a 4 1/2 hour drive.

Reading road signs in Italy is different than reading road signs in the US.  Its not about the language difference since there's nothing to reading a word written in Italian, following a map.  The difficult part was the fact that roads are not clearly marked.  One can drive for a half hour before seeing a sign that confirms (or not) that one is on the correct highway.

Plus, there is considerably confusing maneuvering through small towns along the way to stay on the correct road.  We only had to turn around twice, luckily catching it before we got too far.

Thank goodness for Google Maps and our MiFi which worked great providing us with a good signal along the highway, during the last hour.  The mountainous drive from Florence (Firenze) to Boveglio took us through 29 tunnels! 

The scenery inspired me to take photos but the massive guardrails prevented getting any good shots.  Unfortunately, we couldn't stop to take photos with no shoulder or rest stops on the many toll roads we traveled.

As for the rental car...I stood in line for one entire hour at the Budget Rental window inside the Marco Polo Airport while Tom waited outside with the luggage.  Meeting a friendly couple from Chicago while in line, the wife was so kind to go outside to watch our luggage while Tom came inside to show his driver's license.  

Tom will be the sole driver of the tiny Fiat six speed vehicle.  I must admit I'm not the best driver (OK.  I said it.).  Although in an emergency, I could drive a stick shift but it has been 30 years since my last attempt.  With the long drive "UP UP UP" to our summer home in Boveglio, with NO guardrails, no thank you.

We awaken this morning in a mountaintop paradise, the sound of nearby church bell chiming on the half hour and hour (not always consistent), in a 17th century renovated stone house in the true Tuscan style and we're once again relishing in our unique surroundings, filled with contentment and joy.

Tomorrow, we'll post photos, tell you the sacrifices we must make while here, missing some of our familiar creature comforts and the enhancements to our lives that only this step back in history can bring.

I'll tell you one tidbit now...they don't take credit cards in this area for gas, groceries or restaurants.  Last night, starved after our long day, we found our way to the tiny town of Bennabio where the owner, Alessandro, of the town's only restaurant Il Cavallino Bianco, opened an "account" for us, telling us we can pay our bill before we leave Boveglio in two and a half months. 

Having used most of our Euros in the past month with no nearby bank and it also being Sunday, we appreciated not only a perfect meal (he cooked exactly following my restrictive diet) but speaking no English, we somehow managed to communicate. 

During dinner, the owner of the local grocery store across the street from the restaurant stopped by to also extend credit to us for our time here.  It certainly pays to know Lisa and Luca, the owners of our summer home, popular and well loved residents of this quaint community.  More will follow tomorrow.

So here are our remaining photos of Venice, now almost seemingly a distant memory as we immerse ourselves in our new home, soon heading to the town of Benabbio to grocery shop in the tiny store owned by the lovely Vivienne. Photos to follow!

Here's the rest of our Venice photos!

A simple doorway renovated to modern day.

Many apartments and homes are scattered about Venice.
Hard to resist, fun to look at!
Inside yet another square on our lengthy walk to St. Mark's Basillica.
 Inside the courtyard of the Universita Ca Foscari was a decoration made of trash.
The Universita Ca Foscari entrance.
 Leonardo da Vinci exhibit was being held at the museum.
More delectable looking confections.

So much activity!
Water buses along the Grand Canal.
As done in France, passersby over the Grand Canal at Ponte delle Accademia, place locks on
the bridge posts as a token of love, writing their names on the lock and
throwing the key into the water.
This huge wood carving of a face was interesting.
Buses on the waterway.

Sebastiano T. Italy location.  Campo Santo Stefano.
Ah, here's another pharmacy!
Ornate décor over doorways was appealing.
 
Many old apartments buildings lined the way to the square.
The food,  feast for the eyes, let alone the palate.
Tight quarters.  Lots of boats.
Statue of Marco Polo.
This was as close as we got to the gondolas.
A square we entered when trying to make our way to
 St. Mark's visible in the background.  We walked for two hours
to get to St. Marks over many bridges, down many narrow streets.
More French looking than Italian, this window display of masquerade items was beautiful.
Murano glass figurines from a shop window.
Clock Tower.
Piazza of St. Mark...pretty impressive, eh?
Taking photos of people taking photos.
People and pigeons, everywhere.
Basillica di San Marco.
Tricky photo.  Murano glass sailboats taken outside the store with the
reflection of Piazza of St. Mark reflecting in the glass creating a cool backdrop.

Outdoor restaurant in the Piazza of St. Mark.  Notice the attire on the waiter in the center.
Basillica di San Marco.
More detail on the Basillica di San Marco.


Clock at the Venetian Arsenal.
Gold angels at the top Basillica di San Marco.
Another view of the Basillica di San Marco.

Piazza San Marco.

Side view of Basillica di San Marco.
Piazza San Marco.

Basillica di San Marco.


Atop the Venetian Arsenal.
One of the many structures at the top of Basillica di San Marco.


We got a better view of this statue on our return trip, Island of St. Giorgio Maggiore,
Chiesa Di San Giorgio.
Shuttles lined the docks to return passengers to one of the many giant ships at the port.
A great shot at every turn.


Waiting at the dock for our shuttle to depart.


Not appearing to be rough, the waterway was a little rough due to the boat traffic.

Views along the waterway on the return to the ship.

As the Norwegian Spirit shuttle boat took off to return us to the ship.
 
  •