Tanzania...To see the tail end of the Great Migration...


It was difficult to fathom the massive size of this older male elephant we encountered as we began the drive to Tanzania
Later, we came across this mom and baby, the smallest of the baby elephants we'd seen in any of the prior days.
The drive to Tanzania offered stunning scenery with low lying clouds.

Hanging partway out the window of the sturdy Toyota Land Cruiser, I took this shot as Anderson made our way over terrain definitely not suited for road vehicles.
Gradually, the scenery began to change to include the migrating wildebeest, many of whom had yet to make the journey back to the Serengeti.  Anderson explained they will continue on, instinctively finding their way to the larger herds of millions.

Unable to get as close as we'd like due to the rough terrain we did our best to zoom to get the following photos on the remaining wildebeests.


Vultures love the Great Migration for the carcasses more readily available with the massive numbers of wildebeests falling prey to illness, attack or injury in their lengthy migratory journey.

The closer we were to the Kenya/Tanzania border, everything changed; the  temperature became hotter, more humid with less breezes, the flies clustered around us, the dust blew in our faces and eyes and the landscape became more sparse and unfriendly.

The wildebeest grazed for the few remaining green patches of vegetation, soon to realize that they must move on to meet up with their herds.

Increasing in numbers as we approached the border.
 
Although the sight of the two plus million wildebeest would have been unbelievable, I began to wonder if doing so was as important to me as it had been in the past.  It may sound as if its a rationalization for not having been able to see it but the flies were a huge deterrent for both of us.  They were flying into our noses, mouths and ears.  It was awful.
 
Finally, we were able to stand at the marker that separates Kenya from Tanzania, a pose worthy opportunity for all of us.



Wildebeests, not quite as homely as warthogs held less appeal for us.  Warthogs are playful and funny.  Wildebeests, not so much.
Several years ago, as Tom and I were seated on the comfy bar stools at the  island in our kitchen in Minnesota, we watched a National geographic episode with stunning video of the Great Migration. 

Yea, I know I looked goofy with my BugsAway hat scarf tied on my face.  Honestly, I didn't care.  If I'd had a paper bag on hand, I'd have worn that.  We did everything we could to keep the flies out of our noses, mouths and ears.
As we watched the two plus million wildebeest and other migratory animals as they traveled from the Serengeti in Tanzania, crossing the winding Mara River several times, to end for the lush vegetation during the rainy season in the Masai Mara in Kenya, it proved to be a profound experience for me with my lifelong dreams of Africa.

(To see the map of Diani Beach to the Masai Mara Kenya and Tanzania, please click here).

As the show ended, I looked in Tom's eyes and said, "I must see this in my lifetime."   He smiled and said, "Yea sure, Sweetie."
Tom, Anderson and me, posing at the Kenya/Tanzania border marker, still smiling
but not objecting when it was time to head back to the Masai Mara.
 
At this point, we had yet to conceive of the idea of traveling the world, not even as a distant thought, never as words spoken to one another.  In January 2012, as Tom retirement was fast approaching in 11 months, in a single day, in a single conversation, we made the decision. 
Our outstanding guide and new friend, Anderson. His exuded pure joy at our delight and enthusiasm to see what he sees every day, never taking it for granted, which surprised us. 
The next day, the wheels  were in motion to begin to contemplate the process of liquidating everything we owned:  house, cars, furnishings, clothing, winter coats, stuff, stuff and more stuff, a lifetime of stuff.
The small herds of wildebeest continued as we worked our back on yet another long rough road back to the Masai Mara.
Night after night when Tom returned home, we sorted out the details as to how this would all transpire. During the daylight hours I set the plan in motion.  To say I worked on my computer for 8 to 10 hours a day was an understatement; searching, researching, finding, booking, committing.  Relentlessly. 
No more than a few minutes into the return drive, we spotted another mom and baby elephant, tails swishing batting off the flies. They, too, must feel the effects of the dung of millions of animals.
There were two things we knew for sure:
1.  Tom wanted to sail by ship through the Panama Canal:  Done on January 13, 2013.
2.  I wanted to see the Great Migration:  Not done. But, completely satisfied for now having been on safari this past week and for having the opportunity to see the tail end of the Great Migration when Anderson drove the 6 of us to the border of Tanzania to witness the stragglers.
Although we were quite a distance from them, we enjoyed this photo of mom and bay making their way up a steep incline.
Cindy and David, a lovely couple, safari mates, had just returned from the full experience.  We'd missed it by a week or more.  Anxious to hear their reaction, I pumped them for details.  Was I jealous?  Not at all.  I was excited to glean whatever tidbits they'd share of their glorious experience.  And they did.
After about an hour into the return drive, we saw the last of the wildebeest stragglers, facing a long walk home to the Serengeti in Tanzania. (80% of the Serengeti is in Tanzania with the remaining 20% in Kenya).
Oddly, they were not disappointed to see a portion of it again when Anderson promised to take us to see the tail end of the Migration on the 3rd day of our safari. 

As the landscape became less cluttered and the flies no longer nipped at us, we were happy to be returning to the Masai Mara.
We'd already found the rhinos Cindy and David longed to see earlier that morning, that we had already seen and photographed the previous day when they weren't with us.  Once they had their photos, having also completed their Big 5, they gladly joined us, a feeling we well understood and appreciated.
And then, there were elephants lumbering across the road only feet from our vehicle.
The border of Kenya and Tanzania was an extraordinarily rough hour and a half drive from our location at the time in the Masai Mara.  No words can describe how rough.  The dirt and rock trail was a far cry from a road.  As the crow flies it may have been a half hour drive.  Anderson masterfully maneuvered the Land Cruiser through rock creek beds, water filled creeks, up steep inclines and down treacherous rocky hills.

In my old life, you couldn't have paid me to ride along on such a road. Here I was, that sh_ _ eating grin on my face, bouncing along with the rest of us, occasionally holding Tom's hand out of pure delight, with the unfathomable knowledge that we were on our way to another country, albeit only the border, having the times of our lives.  Besides, we had the dangerous road in Belize and the more frightening road in Tuscany behind us.  We were now seasoned "road warriors."

The closer we got to Tanzania, the flies were unbelievable.  Imagine the dung of over two plus million animals as they made their way across the same terrain we were traveling.  The flies.  OMG! 
The "Retired Generals" lined up to welcome us back to the Masai Mara.
As they attempted to fly into our mouths, our eyes, our nostrils, our ears, I tied my BugsAway hat's hanging fabric around my face, hoping to offer some protection.  For whatever reasons mosquitoes love me, flies love me more.  Remember the flies in Tuscany? This was 1000 times worse!  I wrapped my hands into the parka I'd worn that morning leaving no exposed skin, except for what remained of my face which you can see in the included photos.

Suddenly, something hit me.  Ah, maybe it was OK we didn't see the Great Migration in its entirety.  With the mind blowing safari experience these past days, my desire to be in the bush was richly fulfilled, although not ended. Someday, we'll go back. 

In the end, the flies may deter us from seeing the Great Migration after all.   I feel no disappointment or loss.  Seeing the remaining wildebeest as we neared Tanzania was enriching. Leaving Tanzania to return to the fly-free Masai Mara was equally enriching.  GET ME OUT OF HERE!  I didn't say it, not wanting to be a wimp, but I sure thought it.

The Masai gathered up their cows to return them to the security of the village, close to our camp, away from the risk attack.
By the time we headed back on an alternative equally rough dirt and rock road it was already 2:00 in the afternoon when we pulled into Camp Olonana.  Having had breakfast the second day in the bush, I was hardly hungry for lunch, knowing we'd be having dinner after our later game drive, which we pushed to 4:30 pm instead of the usual 4:00 pm.  After being in the vehicle for 7 1/2 hours, we all welcomed a little break. 

We were covered with dust and dirt.  We didn't care.  There was no sense in cleaning up to go out on safari again in a few hours.  By the time we returned from the 4:30 drive at 7:00 pm, we were exhausted and hungry, ready for dinner. 

The giraffes walked along the hillside at our camp as we wearily sauntered to the restaurant at Camp Olonana for late lunch, cold beverages and time to regroup for the upcoming afternoon drive.
We made a quick stop at our tent to pick up our laptops to post photos and to brush our teeth to get the dirt and dust out of our mouths.  For either of us not to shower and change to have dinner in a restaurant was beyond us.  Somehow, we didn't care.

Another fine safari day ended.  The next day, we'd return to Diani Beach on yet a tinier plane at 1:30 pm, after our visit to the Masai Village for our tour with Chief Richard.   We'll share that story in a few days with many photos and surprising facts about these interesting tribes people, living a sparse and primitive life, far removed from our own reality, to become deeply entrenched in our hearts.

But, Tom and I have decided on one extra post we'll be presenting tomorrow that we'd intended to include with today's post.  However, after careful consideration for not only our young grandchildren and others who are enjoying looking at the animal photos, we've decided to present the "Romantic Lion Couple Mating Ritual." (How did we get so lucky to observe this event?) with a warning that there are graphic mating photos to be posted tomorrow, October 15th.  We're placing a reminder in the heading should you decide to observe it. 
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2 comments:

Anonymous said...

I surly am enjoying traveling along with you since we will never be able to travel like you are. And your excellent writing skills add to the enjoyment. You add things that most people would not think to tell.

In an earlier comment I stated that I did not know of anyone who had gone on a safari, when in fact, my middle daughter, Danielle and her husbands did a safari in Tanzania. I must have had a senior moment when I forgot about that. It was about 3 years ago and I have to this day, not seen all of their pictures. Maybe that is why I forgot about it. They were in Tanzania for a job interview for her husband. He has a phd in research for Infectious Diseases and was to do research on the Aids virus in Tanzania. But when they got there, they wanted him to change to a different research program and he was not interested in doing that. So while they were there, they did a short safari and stayed in a tent like yours with the hard floor and indoor plumbing. They enjoyed it, but Danielle had gotten a stomach bacteria the day before, so she was not feeling too well. They were living in Seattle at the time and I was so happy when he turned down the Tanzania offer. But my son-in-law is from Germany and they ended up moving to Munich, Germany 15 months ago. I am not happy about that either. They have a two year old son and expecting a daughter On Dec 20. I wish I could go for the birth but it is hard knowing when to book the flight and how long to stay. And I have a hard time dealing with the 16-18 hour long trip. You probably can't sympathize with me with all the long, hard flights you have done.

Back to your safari. How could I mention the long trip to Germany after reading about your rough, bumpy drive to Tanzania? You guys must have really toughened up by now! The flies sounded horrible. I understand how your outlook changed after the flies and how excited you were to be back to the Masai Mara. I will have to ask Danielle about the flies when she was there. What would Anderson have done if he had blown out a few tires on those rocks? He really wanted you to see everything; what a great guide.

The elephants crossing the road must have been fun to see. What magnificent animals they are and the babies are adorable. Our zoo just had a new baby elephant and we got to see her this summer.

I loved the pictures of how you covered yourself from the flies. I had to laugh when you said "for whatever reasons mosquitoes love me, flies love me more". Sorry about laughing. And the story of watching the migration on the National Geographic and saying you had to see this and actually getting there and seeing the end of it, is so amazing.

What a long day you had, boy how do you keep going? I would have been dead on my feet by then; and not having dinner until 7:00pm would have been hard for me. And the ending with the lovely Giraffes on the hillside at your camp made me feel happy. They are my favorite you know!

Tomorrows posting should be interesting.

Thanks for the journey today.

Pat


Jessica said...

Your comments are always so insightful and interesting. First off, let me thank you for your kind words about our writing of the blog. I should mention, although I write the words and handle the photos, Tom does the research while I'm working. It is truly a collaborative effort. Often, we fact check as we post links and information and still, err from time to time.

Also, its not unusual you'd forgotten your daughter and husband's safari. Unless you've seen photos and heard stories its hard to remember our kids adventures, let alone our own if we don't document them in some manner.

My eldest son moved to Nevada over 25 years ago and it hurt when he moved away. Although Nevada is a lot closer than Germany, with our busy lives we haven't always seen each other every year. We've managed to stay in touch as if he lived down the road and that has helped, especially now, as it has with our other 3 grown kids and their families.

On Sunday, I spent an hour talking to my 6 year old granddaughter on Skype while she was looking at our safari photos on her computer, asking questions enjoying it so much along with me. We miss them all but in other ways, we all manage to let each other know that we care. It was hard for all of them when we left but in 14 months we'll all be together in Hawaii, all 15 of us! We rented two houses on the ocean, next door to one another. Soon, we'll post that story and photos.

As for the 16-18 hour flight to Germany...I know how hard that is, especially traveling alone. I think going alone would be harder than the long flights we've had and have yet to take. A few years ago, I wouldn't have ever imagined that I'd do a 22 hour flight when we came here from Venice, with the delays. But, somehow we managed and should you decide to go, you will too. Us tough "old broads" as my mother used to say, have a lot more guts than we give ourselves credit for.

It entered my mind during the drive to Tanzania: what if the Land Cruiser broke down? I guess he'd use his vehicle radio to contact another vehicle or the camp and get someone to come get us. We'd have been fine waiting except for the flies. We had a cooler filled with water and beverages, beer included.

As far as "how do I keep going," the answer is simple. When you love what you're doing, it's a non issue. Passion is a powerful motivator both for the spirit and the body. Never once while on safari, did I complain about discomfort. It hardly ever entered my mind.

We usually don't eat dinner until 7 pm anyway so that was no big deal. The breakfast we had in the bush held us until dinner which we didn't actually begin to eat until almost 8 pm. I was tired at the end of the safari days but no more tired than any other busy day. But, I had a hard time sleeping due to the excitement of being there and the glorious sounds of the hippos. If I'd slept better the first two nights, I wouldn't have been so tired.

Now, I will write the story of "The Romantic Couple." We'll see how that rolls out!

Thanks for being YOU.
Warmest regards,
Jess & Tom

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